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January 2013

  • Text
  • Racing
  • Motor
  • Lipo
  • Chassis
  • Brushless
  • Buggy
  • Tires
  • Aluminum
  • Features
  • Hitec
RC Car Action - January 2013

Tech Center SPONSORED BY

Tech Center SPONSORED BY WHY ARE MY TIRES WIGGLING? I noticed something weird on my Q SCT during a recent bash session. When I drive forward, the truck acts perfectly fine. However, when I drive in reverse, the front tires look like they are rocking back and forth. Is this normal and if not, how do I stop this from happening? Some tire wiggle in reverse is normal, but there are ways to minimize A it. The front suspension has caster built into it. Caster is the angle of a line drawn between the upper ball joint and the center of the lower pivot. On an off-road truck, the caster angle is usually over 20 degrees. Caster has a couple of different effects, and one of them is that it allows the front tires to track smoothly. With some caster angle, any small side loads on the tire are behind the caster axis and do not cause any drag on the motion of the tire. When traveling in reverse, the effective camber is negative and small loads on the tire try to steer the tire—making it unstable. Any RC steering system has a little bit of slop and the reverse caster instability causes the tire to wiggle within the bounds of the slop. Chances are this will not have any adverse effects on your performance. However, if the slop is excessive, then it is a good idea to tighten it up. Check all of the steering connections and make sure they are tight. If your truck uses ball cups, then replacing them will also tighten up the steering. WHAT IS LOCTITE? I recently started racing my Q RTR 1/8-scale nitro buggy. I have heard that screws of RTR buggies need Loctite for racing. What is Loctite and where do I need to put it? Loctite is a brand of thread-locking solution. Thread-locker is a liquid that is applied to male A threads before they are installed and after it dries it provides additional protection from the screws backing out. There are many different strengths of thread-locker, but removable thread-locker, which is usually blue in color, should be used. The proper way to use it is to put just a drop or two on the bottom of the threads and install the screw as normal. The solution will dry in less than an hour and be fully cured in a few hours. Typically, thread-lock is only used on a metal screw that is installed in a metal part. On an 1/8-scale car there are plenty of places that it can be used. The most common place is the motor screws, as a loose motor can at best cause a loss of drive and at worst a full set of stripped gears. Exhaust hangers, servo horns, and suspension components are other places it is a good idea to add some thread-locker. Even with thread-lock on your screws, it is a good idea to do a bolt check between races to ensure that there are no screws that are ready to back out in the middle of a race. 24 MORE FROM THIS ISSUE AT RCCARACTION.COM

THERE'S SOMETHING TICKING. I have been Q running my 2WD SCT for a few months and it recently developed an issue. After a couple of minutes of running, it develops a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the motor or diff area. It doesn’t seem to slow the truck down, but it doesn't seem right. What could this be? The only noise coming from any electric vehicle, including SCTs, A should be normal electric whine of the motor and the friction in the drivetrain. Any clicking or loud cyclic noise should be fixed even if it is not slowing the vehicle, as it is usually indicative of an imminent problem. Hold the truck in the air and run it at part throttle to see if the problem can be further isolated by ear. Make sure that there is nothing wrapped around the axle and that the tires and wheels are not wobbling and contacting a suspension component. If there are no issues there, inspect the spur gear. Sometimes the motor will come loose and tighten the gear mesh, which can deform the spur gear and make it noisy. If the pinion and spur look fine, then the issue is most likely internal to the transmission. Take the cover off and inspect the gears inside. Check for stripped or deformed gears, and make sure all of the bearings are running smooth. Take the extra time to rebuild the differential and replace any worn-out parts. Make sure the unit is built to the specifications laid out in the instruction manual, and the clicking should be eliminated. NEW MOTOR, NEW WING SETUP I have just changed the motor in my 2WD buggy from a 13.5 to Q an 8.5 brushless motor. The speed increase is awesome, but I have heard that wings are more effective at high speed. How should I set up my wing for the best handling with my new, faster motor? Aerodynamic forces increase with the square of speed. This A means that if the speed is doubled, the aerodynamic forces quadruple. So, the aerodynamic setup of the car is not trivial. Most buggy wings are not really wings in the truest definition. A true wing has a teardrop profile, but RC wings are typically just a flat plate and work more like a spoiler. In either case, increasing the wing angle will increase the downforce it generates. All of the downforce is applied at the rear of the chassis and the rear tires get most of the extra force. This will make the car feel more stable. The best thing to do is to tune the wing for the fastest corner at your track or bashing spot. Try the car without the wing and get a baseline for how the car handles mechanically. Then, add the wing and set it at a small angle. See if the car is comfortable in the high-speed corners and increase the angle as necessary until it does. Every increase in wing angle will add drag and decrease top speed, so only use as much wing as your skills will allow. NEED HELP? Send questions to techcenter@airage.com, or mail them to “Tech Center” c/o Air Age Media, 88 Danbury Road, Wilton, CT 06897 USA. JANUARY 2013 25

  • Page 8: CONTENTS Volume 28 Number 1 January
  • Page 12: On the Web @ RCCarAction.com MORE C
  • Page 18: Letters Email your letters to RCCA@
  • Page 22: Pit Tips NO SLOP STEERING ROY TAKUN
  • Page 31 and 32: TRAXXAS TAKES FLIGHT Traxxas takes
  • Page 33 and 34: ECX 1/10 V2.0 ECX has been becoming
  • Page 67 and 68: TEKIN GEN2 MOTORS When it comes to
  • Page 69: TRAKPOWER MS-1 BRUSHLESS SYSTEMS Tr
  • Page 75 and 76:

    PERFORMANCE To put the RC8.2e Race

  • Page 80 and 81:

    PROJECT CLASS 5 BAJA 1000 YOLO-insp

  • Page 82 and 83:

    BAJA 1000 ENTER TEAM YOLO While wri

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    BAJA 1000 The basics for the front

  • Page 88:

    BAJA 1000 THE INSIDE MATTERS The in

  • Page 93 and 94:

    WATCH VIDEO So much fun, it RCCARAC

  • Page 101 and 102:

    WORDS KEVIN DESELMS VRC Pro Simulat

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    purchase name brand options using t

  • Page 107 and 108:

    One Deadly Cat WATCH VIDEO RCCARACT

  • Page 112 and 113:

    FACTORY TOUR Hitec RCD Boldly going

  • Page 114:

    FACTORY TOUR Around 1990 when Hitec

  • Page 119:

    KNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS Many racers k

  • Page 122 and 123:

    Novice racers get to spend some pra

  • Page 124:

    Above: Group shots are part of near

  • Page 128 and 129:

    HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR LIPOS 2 CHARGI

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    UNLIMITED ACCESS. UNRIVALED CONTENT

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    HOW TO REBUILD YOUR CASTLE CREATION

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    offbeat rc BY TOM ROSS LONDON OLYMP

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    TOP GEAR! Available in print and di

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    Buying a new car kit. You shopped f

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    BRAND-NEW MUST-HAVE! AVAILABLE IN P

  • Page 153 and 154:

    TRAXXAS LINK The DTS-1 is a ton of

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    1/2V.indd 1 7/20/12 9:48 AM

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    1/2H.indd 1 8/21/12 9:38 AM FREE RC

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